The Sewing Theorist Has a ‘Rectangular Breakdown’

Mood: The type of mood you have to be in to watch ‘Very Bad Men’ on I.D. Discovery

Song: Waves of Change [Kaskade Remix] by Samantha James

The Shirt Pattern as custom drafted by moi. ^.^

The pattern is an attempt to think like a period tailor – comfort and style without a lot of  fabric wastage – and is based off of  extant men’s shirts from the mid-late 16th century Italy. A big thanks to Realm of Venus for making this information, including pictures, readily available!

Shirt #1 that looks surprisingly modern

Shirt #2 with beautiful redwork and gussets

Shirt #3 with more redwork, gussets, and attached ruffs on collar and cuffs

As you can see in the pretty picture below the shirt is very straight forward. Literally. No curves here!

A:  Center front + Center back + 2-4” + seam allowance

B: Arm Length + seam allowance

C: Arm scye + 5” + seam allowance

D: ½ Hip measurement + 2-4” ease + seam allowance

E: Square gores made from remnant

F: Remnant

Dotted line: Signifying the halfway point of measurement ‘A’. This is where the keyhole opening for the head will be placed.

Note1: Depending on the width of your fabric you may only have room for one sleeve.

Note2: Measurement ‘C’ when doubled may not be the same measurement as ‘D’.

Note3: [Version 2] Measurement ‘B’ may not be the whole width of your fabric.

Note4: Added inches in measurement ‘C’ are to be gathered.

This shirt will be the most fabric efficient piece of the entire costume. The black space is the left over fabric that will eventually become the collar and possibly all three ruffs.

I have already cut out the pieces using V. 2 which is actually V.1 in terms of which was drafted first.


Next Time: Handsewing Follies


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